So, the recent conversation about a certain Makkan cave sparked in my memory the acute sense of unease that I felt about the Saudi cash cow that is Makkah.
It is no secret that the pilgrimage industry has been huge business for the Hijaz region since times untold. It is also not unknown that the sitting caliph, sultans, and kings throughout the ages have flexed their authority through their maintenance of the holy sites.
What is happening in Saudi Arabia today, however, is an unprecedented example of complete exploitation. We’ve all seen the pictures of the shiny, glass and steel monstrosities that have forever ruined any charm Makkah might have once known. As a Muslim, these modern skyscrapers, flashy hotels, and mega shopping malls were disturbing to see in what was supposedly the most sacred place on earth.
Beyond that, the sacred sites themselves are littered with some of the worst examples of Saudi vanity. The Saudi coat of arms is shamelessly flaunted in almost every possible way through out the mosque, even on the carpets.
One morning, sitting in front of the Kaa’bah on one of said carpets, I found myself trying to decipher the verses of calligraphy engraved in gold upon the kiswah. I got excited each time I could make out, through all the fancy loops and turns, a verse that I had memorized. Doing this, I made out the following phrase hanging right by the door of the Kaa’bah:
صنعت هذه الكسوة في عهد خادم الحرمين الشريفين الملك فهد بن عبد العزيز آل سعود
“This Kiswah was made during the reign of the Custodian of the Two Holy Mosques, King Fahd Bin Abdul Aziz Al-Saud."
There was already a King Fahd Gate, a King Fahd Stair Case, and a King Fahd Escalator in the King Fahd section of the mosque, but a King Fahd Kiswah? Surely this was taking it a bit too far.
Even on this, the most sacred spot on earth, the first house of worship appointed for mankind, full of blessing and guidance for all the worlds, we were subjected to the vanity of the Saudi regime.
This stuck with me. I questioned whether or not the Saudis themselves even believed that this was the house of God that they were administering.
My question is, with all of the destruction of historical sites, the blatant examples of Saudi narcissism, and the Las Vegas-ification of “the most holy city in the world.” Why aren’t Muslims making more of a fuss?